My Paris neighbors moved to Plogoff in Finistère and invited me for a weekend in May. They started an online stationery company and run the business from there, living an idyllic, though rustic life among the elements. Plogoff is on the Point du Raz, the western tip of France. I began to understand the legendary “tenacity” of the Brittany people, often descended from fishermen, who are confronted by the unpredictable weather. But there are pleasures too. My friends, who live only 10 minutes from the coast, are fanatic birdwatchers and often spot cormerans, puffins and gannets.

Each town has an ancient stone church with fleeting - or timeless – details. A serene saint outside the 14th century Saint Tugen chapel or the stained-glass reflections in the Pont Croix 13th century church each offered a moment of calm. One afternoon, to change the pace, we visited the city of Quimper where the 14th-century timber houses have a Medieval charm. I will return !
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